d’Arenberg 2004 Lovegrass Shiraz McLaren Vale

Cutesy name aside, Lovegrass is serious wine: Bright, delicious black cherry and plum; tender, leather vanilla-tinged tannins; white pepper, cloves, cedar spice and eucalyptus. Dangerously delicious and soft. The 2004 is fantastic, but any vintage of Lovegrass will do. 3.5 stars out of 5. Sweetness=1 out of 10 (dry to sweet). $22

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