Wine review: Franco-Espanolas Rioja Bordón 2008 Riserva

Franco Espanolas Rioja BordonFrom the north-central region of Spain famously called Rioja comes an exceptional example from a wine area finding its own again. Welcome back earthy, robust Rioja. You took a trip to a few famous wine writers’ palates and tragically Americanized yourself but thankfully, you came back to your authentic home where you belong.

By Spanish law, a Rioja Riserva must be aged in barrel for two years then held in bottle for another two before release, so thus the 2008 vintage. It’s one of the only wine regions that sells its wines when they’re ready to drink. A blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha (Grenache) and 5% Mazuelo grapes, the Rioja Bordón Riserva has characteristic Spanish dustiness tinged with black cherry aromatics. It’s best enjoyed after being decanted for 10-15 minutes, to bring out its inner beauty. Rioja Bordón sports a personality of a warrior who secretly likes rom-coms — some flavors of strong brewed tea, smoky oak, wild mushrooms and a touch of silky tannin, balanced with the soft fruitiness of black cherry, plum and blackberry. Food friendly and enough acidity to stand up to a long list of fatty foods — from grilled ribeye slathered in a spicy rub to aged cheeses like Parmesan Reggiano. A fantastic effort for an obscenely low price.

Sweetness: 1 out of 10
Price: $13- 16
Occasion: Sample sent from winery
Availability: Fine wine retailers
Food Pairings: Try Braised Short Ribs, Barbecue Rubbed Pork Chops, or Sausage Stuffed Portobello.

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